COMMITTED CANINE

“Press” “Call Help” & “Paws Up”

This is Dolly, Service Dog in Training. Here she’s learning a few basic tasks.

Opening the “Press Door” button: This can be valuable to enter buildings which offer this feature, even if you are simply tied up holding objects.

“Call Help” We employ a Doggie Doorbell for a “Call Help” task. The receiver can be plugged in anywhere in the house or building. This model has a range of 1000 feet. The dog can be asked to touch the button to call help on command from the Handler, and the dog will remain with the handler until help arrives.

“Paws Up” is used when the handler wants the dog to make contact, but not excitedly jump up. This task can be used to interrupt the handler to lessen the effects of a panic attack or other dangerous behaviors. It can also be used as a form of “deep pressure therapy” to help the handler feel grounded.

A STATIC RETRIEVE

Lots of dog enjoy a good game of “Fetch.” But, not all dog are natural retrievers.

The game of “fetch” is often initiated when the person throws the object. And, lots of dog owners report that the dog will fetch for a while, then run off to covet the object or worse, will just loose interest.

A Service Dog needs to retrieve an item that is most often static. If the handler already had it in her hands (and then threw it for the dog to entice the retrieve), she wouldn’t need the dog to fetch it!

We go about teaching a Service Dog to retrieve assuming the dog doesn’t have a natural retrieving instinct. We don’t toss the object.

We start asking the dog to “take” the object in her mouth. This can be an arduous journey because a lot of dogs just don’t want you to put something in their mouth!

Next, we ask the dog to “hold it,” without dropping it.

Then, we ask the dog to “come” with the object in her mouth (just one or two steps.) In 30+ years of training dogs, I’ve never met a dog that didn’t instantly drop the object when asked to “come.” My job as a trainer is to prevent that from happening -and that takes some skills, patience, and quickness without being frantic or anxious.

Then, the dog is asked to “take it” when the object is presented just a few inches left or right of center of the handler as well as from a position a bit higher or lower from center.

Asking the dog to get up from a sit and walk towards the object to “take it” follows.

Moving the object from the handler’s hand-hold is the next really big hurdle.

Then, the dog is asked to “take it” from various heights and surfaces, including the floor.

Finally, we move to the situation where the handler has dropped the object, which might bounce a few feet away or otherwise end up somewhere unexpected.

Once the dog performs reliably, a new object can be exchanged from the original training object. That process usually goes very quickly and the dog will learn to pick up a wooden spoon, a dish rag, a metal object etc….

I always start with a traditional dumbbell that is properly fitted for the dog’s mouth / muzzle. It supports the “bar” that the dog holds off the surface and it’s made to fit easily in the dog’s mouth. This prevents the dog from wanting to chew on the item.

It’s a multi-step process that WORKS every time I do it, even with dogs that are belligerent or have absolutely no desire to retrieve.

However, it takes a LOT of time and patience without frustration or disappointment when it doesn’t go as quickly as the trainer hopes.

When the dog gets frustrated because she doesn’t know what I want, I must not mirror that frustration. Rather, I must be as calm, relaxed and supporting as possible so that the dog begins to mirror my energy.

The entire process is documented in my book “Dog Training & Tricks: The Guide to Raising and Showing a Well-Behaved Dog” which is also available in e-book format at Amazon.